Although color is the most important criteria for determining the value of a gemstone, cut will materially affect how color is rendered to the eye. It affects the depth of color seen in the stone and influences the liveliness projected by the stone. If a gemstone is poorly cut, it will have a flat look or "windowed" appearance. This failure to cut close to critical angles causes unsightly reflections of the underside of its mounting or the wearer's finger. A gemstone that is well cut will give off brilliance and sparkle from all angles.

What to look for

Frequently, sapphires and rubies are cut excessively shallow or deep to utilize as much of the rough as possible. Very dark material can be salvaged by cutting very shallow bottoms (pavilions) to maximize light absorption and transparency. Very light colored material can be cut very deep intensifying color and allowing additional weight retention.

Avoid gems that look lifeless or lumpy in their setting. When selecting mountings with very small stones, see if "diamond cut" or "machine cut" material is available. Due to their superior cutting, these little gems will show maximum sparkle. At Earth Treasures, we avoid "native" or inferior cuts whenever possible and specialize in colored gems cut to exacting proportions.